Fleece and French terry are the two dominant fabrics in hoodie and sweatshirt manufacturing. They look almost identical on the face of the fabric — both are typically a smooth or slightly textured knit on the outside. The difference is entirely in the construction of the reverse side, and that difference has significant implications for feel, weight, seasonality and cost.
How Fleece is Made
Fleece starts as a standard knit fabric. After knitting, the reverse side of the fabric is mechanically brushed — the brushing process uses fine wire rollers to raise the fibre ends, creating the soft, fluffy interior that fleece is known for. The raised fibres trap warm air, giving fleece its insulating property.
The brushing process also makes fleece slightly heavier than an equivalent unbrushed fabric. Most fleece used in hoodies runs from 280gsm to 400gsm. The heavier the fleece, the more brushing has been applied and the softer and warmer the interior.
How French Terry is Made
French terry — sometimes called loopback — is a knit fabric where the reverse side has loops of yarn that are not cut or brushed. These loops are the defining characteristic of French terry. If you turn a French terry garment inside out, you will see the visible loop structure clearly.
French terry is typically lighter than fleece — 220gsm to 300gsm is the common range. The looped construction is less dense than brushed fleece, making French terry more breathable and giving it a softer, more draped quality.
Key Differences Side by Side
- Feel — fleece is warmer and softer. French terry is lighter and more breathable.
- Weight — fleece: 280–400gsm. French terry: 220–300gsm.
- Seasonality — fleece is an autumn/winter fabric. French terry works year-round, particularly spring and summer.
- Drape — French terry drapes better and has a more relaxed, casual look. Fleece is more structured.
- Cost — French terry is typically less expensive than an equivalent weight fleece because the brushing process adds cost.
- Decoration — both fabrics take embroidery and print well. Fleece holds embroidery particularly cleanly due to its dense surface.
Which Should You Choose?
The answer depends entirely on your product positioning and target season:
- Autumn/winter programme, premium streetwear, heavyweight positioning → Fleece
- Year-round programme, spring/summer, loungewear-adjacent, lighter weight → French terry
- Budget programme, promotional apparel → French terry (lower cost)
- Maximum warmth and premium hand feel → Heavy fleece 360gsm+
If in doubt, request samples of both fabrics in your target GSM before committing. The difference is immediately obvious when you hold both fabrics in your hands.
Can You Mix Both in One Range?
Yes — and many brands do. A common approach is to offer the same hoodie silhouette in a heavy fleece for winter and a French terry version for spring/summer. The outer appearance is almost identical, but the consumer gets a seasonal choice. This also allows you to maintain consistent private label branding across both versions while differentiating on fabric and season.