Hoodie Manufacturing Guide: Fleece, GSM and What to Specify

Ordering wholesale hoodies for the first time — or scaling an existing programme — requires understanding the construction decisions that affect cost, quality and lead time. This guide covers everything you need to specify a hoodie correctly before you contact a manufacturer.

Fleece vs French Terry: The Most Important Decision

The two most common hoodie fabrics are brushed fleece and French terry. They look similar on the outside but feel completely different and serve different markets.

Brushed Fleece

Brushed fleece is the standard hoodie fabric. The reverse side of the fabric is mechanically brushed during finishing, creating the soft, warm interior that most people associate with hoodies. The brushing process raises the fibres, trapping warm air and giving fleece its insulating property.

Fleece is warmer, heavier and more structured than French terry. It is the correct choice for autumn/winter programmes, heavyweight streetwear and any hoodie marketed on warmth or premium weight.

French Terry

French terry has a looped — not brushed — reverse. The loops are visible if you turn the fabric inside out. This makes French terry lighter, more breathable and better draping than fleece. It is the correct choice for spring/summer hoodies, loungewear-adjacent styles and lighter-weight casualwear programmes.

French terry typically runs 220–300gsm versus fleece at 280–400gsm. At the same GSM, French terry will feel lighter because the looped construction is less dense than brushed fleece.

GSM: What It Means and What to Specify

GSM stands for grams per square metre — it is the weight measurement for fabric. Higher GSM means heavier, thicker, more premium-feeling fabric. Here is a practical guide to hoodie GSM ranges:

• 240–280gsm — lightweight. Budget basics. Suitable for promotional and low-price programmes. Feels thin to most consumers.
• 280–320gsm — midweight. The most common range for retail hoodies. Balances cost and quality well. Suitable for most brands.
• 320–360gsm — heavy. Premium feel. Noticeable weight in hand. Popular with streetwear brands and premium casualwear.
• 360–400gsm+ — heavyweight premium. The "luxury" end of the market. Significant cost premium but delivers a distinctly premium product.

Most UK and US streetwear brands spec hoodies at 320–360gsm. Most corporate and promotional buyers work at 280–300gsm. Your retail price point should guide your GSM decision — a £60 retail hoodie needs at least 320gsm to justify the price to consumers.

Fabric Composition: Cotton, Poly-Cotton and Recycled

The most common hoodie fabric compositions and what each means:

• 80% Cotton / 20% Polyester — the classic hoodie blend. Good hand feel, reasonable shape retention, holds print and embroidery well. The polyester adds durability and reduces shrinkage.
• 60% Cotton / 40% Polyester — lower cost, slightly less natural feel. More durable and shape-retentive than 80/20. Common in promotional and entry-level programmes.
• 100% Cotton — premium natural feel. Higher cost. More prone to shrinkage. Required for GOTS organic cotton certification.
• Recycled Polyester Fleece (GRS) — made from recycled PET bottles. GRS certified. Enables verified recycled content claims. Growing demand from sustainability-focused brands.

Construction Details to Specify

Beyond fabric, these are the key construction decisions your manufacturer needs from you:

Drawcord

Flat, round or woven. Matching or contrast colour. With or without metal aglets. This is a visible brand detail — most premium brands spec a flat drawcord in a matching or tonal colour.

Pocket

Kangaroo pocket (open) is standard. Kangaroo with zip, side seam pockets, or no pocket are all available. Pocket depth and width should be specified — standard is approximately 30cm wide and 20cm deep.

Cuff and Hem Ribbing

Standard ribbing is 1x1 rib in matching colour. 2x2 rib is slightly more premium. Contrast ribbing (different colour to body) is a design detail. Rib width — how deep the cuff and hem rib sits — affects the overall look significantly.

Hood Construction

Single-layer hood is standard. Double-layer hood (jersey or fleece lining inside) is a premium detail. Hood lining in a contrasting colour or pattern is a popular design option for premium brands.

Fit

Regular, slim, oversized or boxy. Oversized requires a custom size spec — standard sizing charts do not apply. Always request a fit sample before committing to bulk.

Decoration Options

• Embroidery — premium, durable, works best on chest, sleeve and hood. Requires digitising your artwork.
• Screen print — cost-effective for large graphic areas. Works best on flat surfaces. Not suitable for very detailed or photographic images.
• Heat transfer — good for complex designs and small runs. Less durable than embroidery or screen print at high wash temperatures.
• Puff print — raised, 3D effect. Popular in streetwear. Applied via screen print with a puff additive.
• Rubber / silicone print — high-end, tactile finish. Used on premium streetwear and sportswear.

What to Include in Your Hoodie Brief

• Style: pullover / zip / crewneck
• Fabric: fleece or French terry
• Composition: 80/20, 60/40, 100% cotton or recycled
• GSM: target weight
• Fit: regular / oversized / slim
• Colour(s): Pantone references or physical swatches
• Drawcord: flat / round, colour
• Pocket: kangaroo open / zip / none
• Decoration: embroidery / print, placement, size
• Quantity per style per colour
• Target delivery date
• Certification requirements: GOTS / GRS / SEDEX