Ordering pre-production samples before committing to a bulk order is one of the most important steps in the apparel manufacturing process. Samples let you assess fabric quality, construction, fit accuracy and branding before you spend money on a full production run. This guide covers the complete sampling process — what to send, what to expect and what to check when your samples arrive.
Why Samples Are Non-Negotiable
Never place a bulk clothing order without first reviewing physical samples. No matter how good a manufacturer's reputation or how clear your tech pack, there will always be details that can only be properly assessed in person — fabric hand feel, colour accuracy, construction quality, label positioning and overall fit.
The cost of a sampling round is always significantly less than the cost of a bulk production run that does not meet your standards. Manufacturers who pressure you to skip samples are a red flag.
Types of Samples
- Proto sample — the first sample, usually made in any available fabric to check construction and fit. Not intended for final quality assessment.
- Fit sample — made in the correct fabric and construction to assess fit across your size range. Used to finalise measurement charts.
- Pre-production (PP) sample — made in the exact production fabric, colour, construction and branding. This is the sample you approve before bulk production begins.
- Top of production (TOP) sample — pulled from the actual production run to confirm bulk quality matches the approved PP sample.
For most wholesale buyers, the critical sample is the pre-production (PP) sample. This is the one you approve in writing before bulk production starts. Keep it — it is your quality reference standard.
What to Include in Your Sample Brief
The clearer your sample brief, the more accurate your first sample will be. Include:
- Your tech pack or detailed specification
- Fabric specification — composition, GSM, construction
- Colour — Pantone references or physical swatches
- Size to sample — typically your core size (M or L)
- Decoration — artwork files, placement measurements, technique
- Label and branding requirements
- Reference images or a reference garment if available
- Certification requirements — GOTS, GRS etc. if applicable
Sample Lead Times
Typical sample lead times from a quality manufacturer: proto/fit sample 7–10 working days, pre-production sample 10–14 working days. Lead times start from the day your sample brief is approved and any sample fees are paid.
Sample Costs
Most manufacturers charge for pre-production samples — typically at a rate of 2–5x the bulk unit price to cover the setup cost of a small run. Sample fees are commonly credited against your first bulk order once placed. Always clarify sample costs upfront before requesting.
What to Check When Samples Arrive
- Fabric — does the weight, hand feel and composition match your specification? Weigh a cut piece and compare GSM.
- Measurements — measure every point on your measurement chart. Tolerances of ±1cm are standard. More than ±2cm on key measurements is a problem.
- Construction — check all seams are straight and even. Check stitching density. Check hem finishing is consistent.
- Colour — compare to your Pantone reference or approved swatch under daylight conditions.
- Decoration — check placement measurements, colour accuracy and quality of embroidery or print.
- Labelling — check all labels are correctly positioned, legibly printed and include all required information.
How Many Sample Rounds Should You Expect?
A typical sampling process involves 2–3 rounds. A well-prepared sample brief with a clear tech pack and reference garment can achieve approval in 1–2 rounds. Poor briefs or complex designs can require 3–4 rounds. Each round adds 7–14 days to your timeline — which is why investing time in a clear sample brief pays back immediately in speed and cost.